CÁCH LÊN ĐỒ VÀ BẢNG NGỌC LILLIA ĐI RỪNG MẠNH NHẤT LMHT 10

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Perez uses a tool called a wine thief khổng lồ taste a new vintage straight from the barrel. (Photo Credit: DAvid Benthal)

Perez uses a tool called a wine thief that looks similar lớn a baster and draws out a small amount of gewürztraminer fermented with orange skins, dropping it inlớn her glass. She swirls it around & takes a sip. As the wine fills her mouth, she swishes it around. Her expression quickly indicates her feelings about how the wine tastes.

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“I am going to rack this week because it needs a little bit of oxygene, so just give sầu it a good swirl,” she says, shaking her head. “It started super aromatic và now it’s kind of like …” she scrunches up her face to lớn show her displeasure. “I’m not super happy with it. So I’m going to work on it a bit and see how it comes out.”

Before Perez moved out to the North Fork in February of 2018, she had never heard of the Long Isl& wine region. When she thought of Thành Phố New York wines, her mind went to lớn the Finger Lakes. “But I liked the idea of being in a new region,” she says. “Talking with vineyard managers và winemakers out here, I think we are all excited to keep experimenting with new things.”

“I heard from clients và customers that my wines have something different that are closer to that French style,” she continues. “I was not actually looking khổng lồ bởi vì it that way; it’s just the way I learned with my background.”

Although she sometimes misses the “chaos” that comes with living in bigger cities like Mexico City, the North Fork brings a calmness lớn her. “The appreciation of nature is my favorite thing — sunrises, sunsets, autumn colors và lots of different flowers & animals in the spring,” she said.

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But Perez most loves the challenge of living in a new wine region. “This is my first time being in charge of the whole production,” she says, and she wants khổng lồ get it right. She describes herself as “really nerdy in terms of, ‘This is what I studied và this is the way it should be done,’ controlling every single part of the process.” She leads the way lớn a second aging room filled with wooden barrels. Each one fills the concrete box room from wall to lớn wall, stained slightly by their contents. Here, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon & malbec varieties all age.

“I’m thinking of leaving maybe one or two barrels of this one,” she says, pointing to lớn the malbec. “Just because by itself I lượt thích it better than with the blend & I see the potential of having it in the barrel aging a little bit more và then release it as a special project.”

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Perez, a fearless critic of her own work, samples a new red in the barrel room. (Photo Credit: David Benthal)

It’s clear that Perez listens khổng lồ her gut first, but also has the confidence to tap the experience of local winemakers, who know this region better than her. “When I came here and read there’s a bunch of different winemakers, most of them men & older than me, that was never a barrier. It’s a good thing for me khổng lồ be discussing with people with the experience that I can learn from. And I can give something to lớn them. Being in tương tác with different cultures & different languages, I find that helps me a lot.”

Perez recalls being out in the field one day with three male winemakers. “I was telling them that I love sầu pinot noir and I want lớn vì pinot noir and all of them said, ‘You shouldn’t vị pinot noir, this is not a good year for pinot noir.’ ”

But Perez wanted lớn try it.

“I said, ‘Let’s bởi vì it.’ Maybe there’s things that you should listen to, but I lượt thích lớn learn from my experience,” she says. “And the 2019 Pinot Noir is good. So I’m happy to just follow my instincts on that và not always listen khổng lồ the people with more experience.”